Vinous – January 2023

This is a tremendous set of 2021s from Mark Aubert. The Chardonnays, which I tasted from tank prior to bottling, are marvelously precise and nuanced. Every wine is so well-defined. The Pinots might be even more impressive.

As has been the case the last few years, I also tasted a few older vintages for a separate report. For now, readers who have access to Aubert Chardonnays from magnum should jump on that opportunity, as the big bottle seems to be especially well suited to these wines, especially at the ten-year-plus stage. Two thousand twenty-one is one of my favorite recent vintages at Aubert.

2021 Chardonnay CIX Estate Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Score: 97-100 Points

The 2021 Chardonnay CIX Estate is the wine where it all comes together.  Aromatics, fruit, structure and acidity all meld together in a seamless, layered Chardonnay that opens beautifully in the glass. Nothing sticks out, instead the CIX Chardonnay, like the Pinot, is endowed with mind-blowing finesse. It is a super-classic wine from Mark Aubert. Magnificent.

2021 Chardonnay Eastside Vineyard Russian River
Score: 95-97 Points

The 2021 Chardonnay Eastside Vineyard marries textural richness and vibrancy in grand style. There’s terrific energy here, the result of poor, stressed soils that naturally limit yields. Bright acids and veins of minerality drive this focused Chardonnay. Citrus, orchard fruit, ginger and light tropical accents build into the intensely saline finish. Superb.

2021 Chardonnay Larry Hyde & Sons Vineyard Carneros
Score: 93-95 Points

The 2021 Chardonnay Larry Hyde & Sons Vineyard is creamy, ample and wonderfully expressive. Lemon confit, mint, white pepper, candied ginger, orchard fruit and a kiss of new French oak all meld together. Bright acids lend vibrancy and nuance throughout. Give this a few years to come together.

2021 Chardonnay Lauren Estate Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Score: 96-98 Points

The 2021 Chardonnay Lauren is a rich, phenolic wine. Readers will have to be patient, as the Lauren is packed with fruit and structure. Orchard fruit, chamomile, dried flowers, mint, sage and dried pear build into the rich, palate-staining finish. The Lauren has a textural intensity that makes it feel almost like a red wine. Historically, the Lauren has been one of the best agers here.

2021 Chardonnay Park Avenue Estate Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Score: 95-97 Points

The 2021 Chardonnay Park Avenue possesses tremendous textural richness and breadth, with plenty of orange peel, spice and tropical notes. Readers who like opulent Chardonnays will adore the Park Avenue. It’s an exquisite wine in every way.

2021 Chardonnay Powder House Estate Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Score: 94-96 Points

The 2021 Chardonnay Powder House is elegant, polished and also a touch reticent. That won’t be an issue in time… Strong mineral accents are front and center, while the fruit feels pushed into the background. Mark Aubert’s Chardonnays have historically aged quite well. I expect that will be the case here as well.

2021 Chardonnay Sugar Shack Estate Vineyard Napa Valley
Score: 94-96 Points

The 2021 Chardonnay Sugar Shack is a classic Mark Aubert wine. Creamy and ample in feel, the 2021 is super-expressive right out of the gate. Soft, silky contours frame lemon confit, white flowers, tangerine oil and lightly honeyed overtones that appear with aeration. All the elements are so well balanced. The Sugar Shack is one of the more immediate wines in this range and will drink well pretty much upon release.

2021 Chardonnay UV-SL Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Score: 95-97 Points

The 2021 Chardonnay UV-SL Vineyard is one of the more exotic wines in the range. Initially a bit ethereal, the 2021 opens beautifully on the mid-palate and finish, where it shows tremendous breadth and notable mineral intensity. The UV-SL is not quite as obvious as some of the other wines in this range, but its pedigree is evident. There’s real density here, and tons of class.

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2021 Pinot Noir CIX Estate Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Score: 97 Points

The 2021 Pinot Noir CIX Estate is fabulous. Rich, deep and explosive, the 2021 possesses striking inner perfume and brilliant fruit. Sweet red cherry, plum, spice and pomegranate build into the heady, sumptuous finish. What a wine.

2021 Pinot Noir UV Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Score: 96 Points

The 2021 Pinot Noir UV Vineyard is bright, punchy and super-expressive. Bright red/plum, blood orange, rose petal, lavender, spice and strong floral/savory accents add nuance throughout. The 2021 is an absolute joy to taste. The UV was done with entirely destemmed fruit, but its aromatic profile offers quite a bit of whole cluster-like character.

2021 Pinot Noir UV-SL Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Score: 96 Points

The 2021 Pinot Noir UV-SL Vineyard is the darkest and most potent of the Pinots. It offers up copious dark cherry, plum, mocha, new leather and licorice. The 2021 possesses tremendous breadth and resonance. There’s plenty of power, but also the vibrancy that is increasingly a signature here.